There’s an active volcano tourists run to, not away from, despite the potential threat of poisonous gas and flying lava. In fact, CNN considers it worthy of a vacation bucket list — for risk-takers that is, second only to piloting a fighter jet. Meet Cerro Negro, Nicaragua’s youngest active volcano, and discover the adrenaline rush that is drawing tourists of all ages: volcano boarding. 

“It’s the only volcano in the world where you can do something like that, so the people love it and I enjoy seeing the people happy,” Lester Centeno, head guide for Bigfoot Hostel & Volcano Boarding, said during a recent interview with Kinute. Centeno regularly leads groups up Cerro Negro for the epitome of thrill seeking and has been loving it since that first day in 2017 at Bigfoot, the “original” company offering the tour.

Volcano boarding is not for the frail. Cerro Negro is 2,388 feet above sea level, so expect a strenuous 45-minute hike to reach the peak of this black hill against sometimes 30 mph winds. During the climb, you’ll be carrying a 15-pound plywood board. How else do you expect to surf to the bottom of a volcano?

In CNN's bucket list for thrill seekers, volcano boarding is second only to piloting a fighter jet in Crazy Things You Must Do Before You Die. These boards can reach speeds of up to 60 mph. Photo provided by Lester Centeno

There’s often a local willing to carry the board for some extra cash, so keep an eye out if you’d like to lighten your load. All this for a ride that’s over in 40 seconds but will live on a lifetime in memories.

Volcano boarding is for all ages: the oldest a 78-year-old grandma, the youngest a 3-year-old, as Centeno recalls.

“The 3-year-old boy went by himself, and it was awesome,” Centeno said. Three cheers for bravery, but Centeno shared the secret of why kids don’t get the thrill of adult surfers. “Kids go slow. They are light,” he said.

The adventure draws the famous as well. “I met the president of the Nicaragua baseball federation once,” Centeno said, recalling he was “such a cool guy!”

Going home in one piece

That is not to say that nobody ever gets hurt or ends up with an occasional mouthful of black ash. The volcano board is a rectangular sheet of plywood with a strip of metal for speed and rope to hold onto but no brakes; protective gear is limited to a jumpsuit and goggles. 

Rugged conditions, along with black ash, greet anyone who has the moxie to try to tackle Cerro Negro surfer style. Photo provided by Lester Centeno

“Volcano boarding is an extreme activity with focus on tourism,” Centeno said. “There is a small risk when you do volcano boarding but we always try to take care of the participants. Since I’ve been doing this, I just had a couple of accidents, but everything was under control.”

For some it’s not enough to surf down the volcano at speeds up to 60 mph. They are extreme adrenaline junkies, and that sometimes ends in injury as well. An example is the dare devil who wanted to take the plunge on a bike. He landed in the hospital with multiple injuries and broken bones. Did that discourage other risk takers? No way. People are often trying to set new speeds and race the volcano on everything from fridge doors to mattresses. Some have even approached the mountain like a surfer, standing up on the board—the sand, their wave. 

One would think the active status of Cerro Negro, 6.2 miles from Malpaisillo, is another very real danger, but the volcano hasn’t erupted since 1999. Then there’s that early warning: Earthquakes are common before lava starts pouring out, National Geographic said, adding there's been 23 eruptions total since the volcano's birth northeast of Leon in 1850.

Cerro Negro is part of a mountain range called Cordillera de los Maribios, and this gives volcano boarders a breathtaking view to savor after their climb. Photo provided by Lester Centeno

History of the sport

How did volcano boarding become all the rage and drum up volumes of press, from CNN to The New York Times? According to the website for Bigfoot Hostel & Volcano Boarding, the originator of this activity was Daryn Webb, an Australian extremist who took his first boarder down an active volcano in 2004. 

"Daryn and his crew endured a fair share of trials and errors testing everything from picnic tables to mattresses, even a fridge door—Yes, a fridge door—until they created a sit-down toboggan made of metal and Formica-reinforced plywood," the website said.

Although today there are many tour companies following Webb's lead, Bigfoot was head of the pack at Cerro Negro, Centeno said. 

"There are a lot of companies doing the same tour but in Bigfoot we have the original one. Because volcano boarding was born at the hostel, we have the experience, the knowledge and the best tour guides," said Centeno.  

Tour guide Lester Centeno, left, poses with someone daring enough to try volcano boarding at Cerro Negro. Photo provided by Lester Centeno

According to Bigfoot Hostel & Volcano Boarding, 20,000 individuals have blasted down Cerro Negro through their tours. There are several options to maximize the experience—as if shooting down a live volcano isn't enough, and these are taking the tour at sunrise or sunset. With the bird's-eye view from the top of the mountain range called Cordillera de los Maribios, this is a photo op like none other. 

Besides the adrenaline rush, volcano boarding rewards participants with a spectacular view. Photo provided by Lester Centeno

Later, since Bigfoot is also a hostel, there's the opportunity to share tales of the adventure in the bar where one can take the lava shot challenge. All that climbing will no doubt build an appetite, so the Hostel serves up local cuisine—and burgers too.  

Boon for tourism

For Centeno, it’s not all about the thrill or the hiking, the latter his passion even before he took the job. He said that volcano boarding is a boost not only for adventurers, but for tourism.

A group of risk-takers shares the camaraderie of tackling a volcano together as part of Bigfoot Hostel & Volcano Boarding. Photo provided by Lester Centeno 

“I think what I can share is my happiness, doing my job, which is making people fall in love with Nicaragua,” he said. And there’s so much to adore. National Geographic describes the country as a “geological hotspot” based on its 19 volcanoes across the West Coast. Although some volcanos are green from vegetation, Cerro Negro means in Spanish, 'Black Hill.' According to National Geographic, it lives up to its name as a dome devoid of greenery but not variety: The landscape ranges from snow-like white ash to black boulders and, at the center of the mountain, reddish boulders.

For tourists, those that Centeno is mindful of, Nicaragua also offers both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean for double fun in the sun—the perks of its location at the heart of Central America. Another attraction mentioned in World Travel Guide is the beach at La Flor Wildlife Reserve where thousands of turtles gather to lay their eggs, but since volcano boarders are most inclined toward excitement, there's also a dense jungle adventure where an occasional jaguar might be spotted at Indio Maize Biological Reserve. 

According to WorldData.info, the country drew 474,000 tourists in 2020, ranking 132 in the world. In 2018, tourism revenue amounted to $544 million. This year, the U.S. Department of State has issued a Level 3 travel advisory for Nicaragua, citing limited health care availability and arbitrary enforcement of laws. But for those seeking to check volcano boarding off their bucket list, it might not be a deterrent.

Making it happen

Volcano boarding costs approximately $30 per person, which includes gear and shuttle service. Even a sport some have likened to insanity has a few basic rules: Wear good sturdy boots, avoid rainy days and Centeno adds jokingly, "I guess the only other restriction is alcohol. There is no way to do volcano boarding with drunk people." (So save the lava shots for evening festivities.)

Jumpsuits and goggles are about the only protection these adrenaline junkies get for protection during their encounter with an active volcano. Photo provided by Lester Centeno 

While this is a year-round sport, rain is a spoiler, he said. "Even in winter we do the volcano boarding, but when there is rain, we say, ‘No’.” 

When not taking tourists on the ride of their life, Centeno said, “I love to spend time with my family. I enjoy swimming on a hot day, and as a Leon citizen, party is part of my life.”